Its name comes from Greek and means something like "joy of the mountain". Oregano grows wild on the sunny hills of the Mediterranean, and unlike many other herbs it is at its best dried: as it dries, its aroma concentrates and becomes more intense.
It is the herb of pizza, of pizzaiola sauce and of summer tomato salads, but it is also lovely on roast vegetables, pulses, marinated tofu and fennel gratin.
To release its fragrance, crumble it between your fingers directly over the dish. And if you find it in bunches, perhaps from Sicily or Calabria, keep it in a tightly closed glass jar, away from the light.