Tomato passata is ripe tomatoes, briefly cooked, sieved to remove skins and seeds, and bottled. For many Italian families making it at the end of summer is a ritual of huge pots, jars to sterilise and whole days spent together.
It is the base of countless sauces: with a light soffritto and a few basil leaves it is ready in twenty minutes, and it is also perfect for vegetable stews, curries, soups and topping focaccia. Homemade with San Marzano tomatoes, a little salt, garlic and bay leaf, it has a flavour no shop-bought bottle can match.
If you make it yourself, follow the rules for sterilising jars carefully.