Savoy cabbage is the winter cabbage of the Veneto, with crinkled, blistered leaves that become sweeter after the first frosts. In the Venetian countryside it is the star of broeton, the grandparents' soup served piping hot and covered with black pepper.
The large, sturdy outer leaves, blanched for a few minutes, are perfect for rolls and can even replace pasta in a lasagna. The tender heart is best thinly sliced and braised, or stir-fried with spices. With tandoori masala it becomes a dish from a whole other latitude.